Custom Design

In case you had forgotten that the end of summer is generally a bit of a slow news period in fashion, we’re here to remind you! The New York Daily News (with some help from Fashionista.com) counted down the most powerful global luxury brands of 2010 this spring, and although we didn’t have a chance to post about it back then, we do now. Consulting firm Millward Brown Optimor comes out with this list every year, and the brands staking claim to the top spots in the middle of a bad economy for luxury likely won’t surprise handbag aficionados.

Even though the industry as a whole is down about 3%, number one-ranked Louis Vuitton has still managed to grow its worth by 2% to nearly $20 billion, which appears to refer to just the brand and not the entirety of the LVMH conglomerate. Hermes, meanwhile, comes in at number two and has grown by 8% to almost $8.5 billion. Rounding out the top three, Gucci is up 2% with a little over $7.5 billion. What do all three brands have in common? None of them are bolstered by the high-margin cosmetics market (although Hermes and Gucci both have fragrance lines) and all three are most famous for their handbags and leather goods.

Two other brands with large presences in the handbag market also make the list: Chanel and Fendi, at number four and number nine, respectively. Both have lost value as companies in the past year (Is Karl Lagerfeld losing his touch? That’s another post entirely), but they’re still doing better than almost all of their competition. The article in the Daily News doesn’t make mention of the brands’ power in the handbag market, but the common thread seems hard to ignore.

Handbags have higher margins and are more widely marketable than a dress or even a shoe because they’re perceived (and rightfully so) as having a larger number of practical uses and a more durable, long-lasting nature. But it’s worth remembering: the money you spend on bags is making the people who design them extremely wealthy and powerful. At the very least, you should be getting a well-made bag and a great shopping experience in return. If you’re not, vote with your dollars. Who would be on your personal power list?

See the full list via the New York Daily News.

Original post by Amanda Mull

In case you had forgotten that the end of summer is generally a bit of a slow news period in fashion, we’re here to remind you! The New York Daily News (with some help from Fashionista.com) counted down the most powerful global luxury brands of 2010 this spring, and although we didn’t have a chance to post about it back then, we do now. Consulting firm Millward Brown Optimor comes out with this list every year, and the brands staking claim to the top spots in the middle of a bad economy for luxury likely won’t surprise handbag aficionados.

Even though the industry as a whole is down about 3%, number one-ranked Louis Vuitton has still managed to grow its worth by 2% to nearly $20 billion, which appears to refer to just the brand and not the entirety of the LVMH conglomerate. Hermes, meanwhile, comes in at number two and has grown by 8% to almost $8.5 billion. Rounding out the top three, Gucci is up 2% with a little over $7.5 billion. What do all three brands have in common? None of them are bolstered by the high-margin cosmetics market (although Hermes and Gucci both have fragrance lines) and all three are most famous for their handbags and leather goods.

Two other brands with large presences in the handbag market also make the list: Chanel and Fendi, at number four and number nine, respectively. Both have lost value as companies in the past year (Is Karl Lagerfeld losing his touch? That’s another post entirely), but they’re still doing better than almost all of their competition. The article in the Daily News doesn’t make mention of the brands’ power in the handbag market, but the common thread seems hard to ignore.

Handbags have higher margins and are more widely marketable than a dress or even a shoe because they’re perceived (and rightfully so) as having a larger number of practical uses and a more durable, long-lasting nature. But it’s worth remembering: the money you spend on bags is making the people who design them extremely wealthy and powerful. At the very least, you should be getting a well-made bag and a great shopping experience in return. If you’re not, vote with your dollars. Who would be on your personal power list?

See the full list via the New York Daily News.

Original post by Amanda Mull

When a reader pointed us in the direction of the Wall Street Journal’s profile of Spanish accessories brand Loewe and its creative director Steven Vevers, it seemed like as good a time as any to discuss the relevancy of the so-called “anti” It Bags. Vevers, a veteran of brands like Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and most recently Mulberry, has decided to take Loewe in a very different direction than many of his past designs would indicate by introducing bags like the Loewe Papelle Bag, above.

Vevers was the creative mind who changed Mulberry’s image from a staid British leather goods company to the favorite of London It Girls that we know it as today. He did that by updating the brand to a youthful, playful look, but apparently he feels that the time is right for consumers to want something different by every measure. So…do you?

We’ve mentioned previously that some designers are starting to dial back the volume of their bags, most notably Chloé, who recently made a 180-degree turn away from the over-the-top detailing that made its bags fashion essentials during the mid-2000s. Despite the fact that many fashion critics have heralded those bags and the statement that comes with them, they don’t seem to be flying off shelves or dotting the arms of the style-conscious starlets whose choices can seriously impact sales.

And then there’s Loewe, a brand without much of a following outside of its native Spain. Vevers is trying to make a worldwide name for the company on this trend, and according to the WSJ, he’s betting that it’s more than a passing fad. Vevers has managed to get stars like Angelina Jolie and Jessica Alba to carry the Loewe Amazona bag, but at prices nearing two thousand dollars for a bag that’s mostly non-leather, it seems like a tough sell for those who aren’t receiving it for free.

At the very least, the grocery bag-aping Papelle Tote is all leather and retails for a bit less than the Amazona, around $1045. Unfortunately, what it’s not is original – Proenza Schouler also released a “paper” bag this season, and we wrote about Chanel’s leather shopping bag way back in March 2009. Still, those bags both have a lot of what Vevers seems to want to avoid: personality and style.

The Loewe Papelle Bag is perhaps an interesting art object and a statement about consumerism that surely a few people will want to make, but I’m not sure if enough bag lovers are willing to eschew personality entirely and carry an expensive bag painstaking fashioned to look like a nameless brown grocery sack. It seems like Loewe is willing to take that chance and stake the brand on this sort of minimalism. What say you, bag lovers: is this the kind of bag that you want?

Read more via WSJ.com. Picture via The Wall Street Journal.

Original post by Amanda Mull

It has happened. The Kardashian sister trio, Kim, Kourtney, and Khloe, have announced their global partnership with designer Bruno Schiavi and his apparel company Jupi Corporation. The initial range is said to include a women’s Ready to Wear collection, handbags, belts, wallets, and lingerie which should hit stores in 2011.

We have seen so many celebrity fashion lines and most of them are far from anything I would buy. I will be the first to admit that I love watching the Kardashians on TV, but their empire of everything they place their names on has seemed to lack any discretion seems to be chosen as long as it brings in money. I am not finding fault with their knowing how to market themselves, but I am not about to run out and buy a handbag or piece of clothing because their name is associated with it.

Bruno Schiavi is an “expert” on body image and has focused his lines on body range items inspired by The Biggest Loser and Dr. Rey’s Shapewear range. This is why Schiavi thinks working with the Kardashians is a great fit, since he believes they “celebrate healthy and curvaceous body image, the importance of high self esteem and family values whilst still being fun, theatrical and sexy.” I can’t say I wholeheartedly agree with that – aren’t the girls promoting a diet supplement and didn’t Kourtney pass out from lack of food and over exertion trying to lose baby weight? What I can say is that the Kardashians have great curves and maybe it could be useful to have a line out there that embraces this.

But, the Kardashians are always dressing great (we give them a lot of outfit love on BagThatStyle). There is a great chance their clothing can turn out being cute, but I am highly skeptical about their bags. Either way, we will give you more details as the line comes to fruition.

“The Kardashian sisters are an inspiration to women of all ages and loved for their sense of fashion and style. I am extremely excited to be working with Kim, Khloe and Kourtney across so many fashion categories – taking their brand to women in key markets around the world” says Bruno Schiavi.

“We are excited to work with Bruno Schiavi in developing our first brand together,” stated Kim, Khloe and Kourtney Kardashian. “His expert design sensibilities, his amazing creativity, and his genuine understanding of female consumers everywhere make him the ideal partner.”

What do you all think of the Kardashians starting their own line?

Original post by Megs Mahoney Dusil

Before we get going here, I want to be clear – this discussion is on “inspired” items, not counterfeit bags or any garment that misuses another brand’s name or logo. We would never encourage or condone that!

It’s no secret in these parts that some of our readers get very punchy when they feel as though one designer has taken liberties with the work of another. The subject of originality is one that’s near and dear to almost any fashionista’s heart, likely because we’ve all been conditioned to seek out The Next Big Thing. When a designer bases a garment too closely on what has already been done, it flies directly in the face of the pursuit of the new. Retro is one thing, ripoff is another.

Or is it? Johanna Blaklely, a University of Southern California researcher that specializes in media and intellectual property, thinks that perhaps the well-worn practice of fashionable copycatting is actually what continues to drive fashion forward and make designers better and more original. She makes an interesting case in the video above, and we’ll discuss it after the jump.

In case you’re unfamiliar with how trademark protection differs from copyright protection, here’s the basic distinction: trademark protects registered brand identifiers (the Louis Vuitton monogram, for example), while copyright protects intellectual property and creative work (the overall design and shape of the Speedy bag). Just like any other business, fashion designers enjoy trademark protection on their names and logos, but unlike musicians and writers, they don’t have any copyright protection on their work. According to the law, fashion is classified as too utilitarian to receive additional protection.

As Blakley explains in the video, that means that basically any brand can rip off any garment as long as they don’t reproduce the original company’s trademark. Many designers, most vocally Diane Von Furstenberg and the CFDA, think that designers should be given the same consideration as musicians, which could potentially mean that it would be illegal for anyone but Von Furstenberg to manufacture patterned wrap dresses, for example.

The age-old argument in favor of copyright protection is that without ownership, there’s no incentive to innovate. The alternative, I guess, is supposed to be that designers rip each other off into oblivion until no one has any brand identity or sense of creativity anymore. Has that happened in fashion yet? It doesn’t seem so – trends are now moving more quickly than ever and designers are being forced to find new angles and new ideas more rapidly.

Blakley brings up another good point in that regard – could copyright protection and fashion trends as we know them coexist? Probably not, and trends are what push sales for many brands and retailers. They guide shoppers toward what to buy and how to stay current, and if everyone in fashion was forced to make something completely different than everyone else, it might be a little difficult for the average shopper to put together a cohesive outfit, unless all of the components came from the same brand.

Would it even be possible for every designer to simultaneously do something completely different than any other? Again the answer is probably not, and I wouldn’t want to be the government official tasked with deciding which designers get to use which materials, shapes and techniques. Also, there’s the issue of deciding what makes a garment substantially different than any other – does a menswear company need to be forced to prove that its white button-down shirts are substantially different from any other?

Ultimately, copying is a part of the creative process at every level of fashion, and being able to pick the very best from the pastiche of garments past to mold in to something new is part and parcel of being a successful designer. Similarly, the ability to quickly recreate those looks keeps stores like Forever 21 in the black and forces luxury brands to constantly chart new territory and make better, harder to copy clothes and accessories. I went in to Blakley’s lecture dubious, and although I didn’t agree with everything she had to say, she certainly makes a compelling case in favor of a designer’s right to rip things off. As always, let us know your take in the comments.

Original post by Amanda Mull

We’re a couple days late on this story because we were hoping to have pictures for you, but no such luck. Instead, we’ll have to use our imaginations to figure out what Mulberry’s line for use discount retailer Target will look like.

The collection, slated for release October 10, makes the British brand the latest in a long line of designers that have collaborated with Target for capsule lines of clothes, bags and shoes. What makes this particular set of bags interesting, however, is that the bags will reportedly be made of materials like denim and velvet, avoiding the PVC-heavy purses that we’ve seen in the past.

I’ve always hated the waxy texture and chemical smell of PVC, so I’m hopeful that the use of something other than fake leather will elevate these bags above some of the previous handbag collections that we’ve seen at Target. Are you excited about this collection? We’ll post pictures as soon as they come our way.

Original post by Amanda Mull

I’m from the South, so I come from a tradition where people dress up for particularly popular sporting events. Admittedly, I’m not all that tuned in to international soccer or the conventions and traditions that surround it, but I figure that there’s some daring bag lover out there that likes to dress to support her team and still be fashionable. If not, well, take this purely as a comedy post. You have to admit, however, that no matter where or how you’re watching the games, you’ve still got to carry a bag, right?

Fendi Peek-a-Boo Satchel

Countries: This one really only works for South Africa. The black, green and yellow banding remind me of the structure of the country’s flag as well as the colors. If only the cream portions were white! Buy through Luisa Via Roma for $4248.

Versace Naomi Leather Satchel

Countries: Greece, Argentina or Honduras, depending on how much you care about getting an exact match for the shade of blue. Would also work for Sweden, but, well, they didn’t qualify. Buy through Luisa Via Roma for $1962.

Tory Burch Palma Small Backpack

Countries: Perhaps the only bag in this group that you’d actually want to carry to a World Cup game if you’re not sitting in a luxury box. If you’re a fan of Germany, Ghana, Spain or Brazil, you’re in luck! Buy through ShopBop for $295.

Bottega Veneta Mini Woven Shoulder Bag

Countries: Green is a pretty useful color when it comes to country-specific dressing, but it’s not so easy to find in bags. Brazil, Mexico, Algeria, Cameroon, Cote d’Ivoire, Portugal, Nigeria, Ghana and Italy – this is the one for you guys. Buy through Saks for $725.

Nancy Gonzalez Crocodile Zip Top Satchel

Countries: Cameroon, Chile, Denmark, England, France, Germany, Ghana, Italy, Japan, Mexico, The Netherlands, North Korea, Paraguay, Portugal, Serbia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain Switzerland and the United States all feature red prominently, making their fans prime candidates for this luxe satchel. Buy through Saks for $2850.

No matter which country takes home the trophy, the real winners, of course, are teams like Brazil and Ghana, since they have the most handbag choices. Naturally. Who will you be rooting for?

Original post by Amanda Mull

Sometimes I just don’t get the French.

In a trademark infringement suit filed in Manhattan Federal Court, Louis Vuitton is going after the Korean Automobile manufacturer Hyundai for using its trademarked logo in a Superbowl commercial. The commercial briefly displays an LV Monogram basketball being tossed around in a random street hoops game.

The French fashion house argues that Hyundai committed infringement by displaying their iconic famous and incontestable logo in the commercial.

However, upon closer inspection, it is easy to recognize that the canvas is only made to resemble the LV print, it is not the true print that Louis Vuitton trademarked in 1932. The faux print was used as a visualization of expensive luxury that is easily recognizable by many and, if anything, only strengthens the awareness of the LV brand as a leading luxury manufaturer.

Keep in mind, would companies not kill to have the opportunity to score a commercial during one of the most watched annual television events worldwide? Not only do the slots cost millions but are also highly contested.

I am no expert on these legal matters, nor do I run a global multi-billion dollar fashion conglomerate, but it is my opinion that the efforts to protect the LV brand may just have gone a bit too far in this one.

We shall find out the court’s ruling soon. In the meanwhile, how do you feel as a consumer about this lawsuit?

Original post by Vlad Dusil

One of the hottest tickets at New York Fashion Week is for Proenza Schouler, which will be showing tonight. Proenza Schouler Bags have not only hit the scene but they have become highly sought after. The PS1 is now a part of many PurseBloggers handbag vocabulary.

While it will not include PS1’s, as the PS1 is not part of the runway show as they are separate from the seasonal bag collection, the handbags from the Fall/Winter 2010 Proenza Schouler show will be available on ProenzaSchouler.com for 24 following the show. Also, you can watch the show live tonight at 8 PM EST also at their website.

Check out the show tonight and make sure to check back to see if any of the runway bags are calling your name!

Original post by Megs Mahoney Dusil

Scarlett Johansson can be seen as the face of Mango campaigns and now also has partnered with Mango to design a handbag which will benefit the victims of the Haiti earthquake. The simple tote shape is adorned with ancient cartography of Haiti and at the top of the bag has the message “Supporting the people of Haiti. Designed by Scarlett Johansson”.

About this collaboration Scarlett Johansson said: “I’m thrilled to be collaborating with Mango to promote conscious consumerism and to benefit Oxfam’s Haiti Earthquake Response Fund. By purchasing this bag, which I specially designed, you are helping to provide life saving assistance like clean water to the people of Haiti.”

Ninona Vila, Corporate PR Director said: “Given the terrible events that have taken place, MANGO wants to support the victims of the Haiti earthquake. For this reason, we want to offer our clients the chance to collaborate in this project, as there are many people who need help.”

We love to see well-known celebrities use their name and fame to help out others in need. The tote would be great to roll up and take on vacation or use everyday for a change of shoes, work accessories, or take to the market. Expect the handbag to hit Mango stores worldwide in March. Part of the profits will be donated to NGO Oxfam International.

What do you think about this collaboration?

[story and photo via Nitro:licious]

Original post by Megs Mahoney Dusil